'Til death do us part': wedding dresses throughout the decades

In the next instalment of our 'Fashion throughout the decades' series, Sophie Laughton explores how wedding dresses throughout history have reflected the cultural norms of each society.

The Boar Lifestyle

Image: Unsplash

The wedding dress is one of the most iconic garments in fashion history. More than just a dress - it is a symbol of love and the promise of a happily ever after. Once they’ve found the one, brides are willing to splash out thousands of pounds on the perfect gown. Aside from its importance on the big day, wedding dresses offer a unique insight into socio-cultural norms and fashion history.

Whether we’re talking about celebrities from the 2000s in bedazzled princess gowns or real princesses in timeless classics, wedding dresses have evolved substantially over the years and each decade’s trends were clearly shaped by the most influential dresses of their day.

Image: Unsplash

Throughout much of history, lower-class women would wear their Sunday best on their wedding day, while rich brides would choose outfits that showed off their wealth, boasting gold or silver embroidery, furs, and exclusive fabrics.

White was uncommon. In fact, blue was the popular colour for wedding dresses as it was associated with innocence and purity due to its connection with the Virgin Mary.

Although this is no longer the case, the colour blue still holds a special place in bridal fashion thanks to the rhyme “something borrowed, something blue.” Many women wear a blue garter under their dress in a nod to this tradition.

However, wedding history was changed forever when Queen Victoria arrived on the steps on St James’ Palace for her wedding to Prince Albert. Wearing an exquisite white satin dress with Honiton lace detailing and a long veil topped with a garland of orange blossom, the young queen epitomised Victorian ideals of romance and femininity. Wealthy brides flocked to copy her look, and the quintessential white wedding dress was born.

Images: Roger Fenton/Wikimedia Commons

The 1920s was a period of dynamic change for women in the UK. The First World War had pushed many women into employment for the first time and with women being granted the vote in 1918, they soon found they had more freedom than ever before. This was something that was soon reflected in their rapidly transforming wardrobes. The corsets and bustles of the previous generation were dropped in favour of a straighter, looser silhouette, focussing on ease of movement for everyone’s new favourite pastime: dancing. In line with these new fashions, wedding dress lengths shortened, and waistlines dropped. Cloche veils epitomised this era, inspired by the close-fitting bell-shaped hat.

Years later, not even the Second World War could keep loved-up couples from tying the knot, but the challenges of a wartime wedding impacted what brides could wear. Silk was heavily rationed, and some thrifty brides sewed their own dresses from leftover parachute silk. Even Queen Elizabeth II famously saved up her own ration coupons for her stunning Norman Hartnell wedding gown in 1948.

Couples were often pushed for time as weddings took place while soldiers were home on leave. Skirt suits, service uniforms, and smart dresses were the popular choice, especially if the bride had to hop on a bicycle to cycle to the church on time.

Due the high cost of fabric, wedding dresses for ordinary women were usually never “one wear” garments and would often be reworked or dyed to make it appropriate for future formal wear. However, by the 1950s the availability of synthetic fabrics and a substantial growth in wealth meant that dresses were no longer chosen with longevity in mind. Instead, they became more of a statement; a sentimental piece for brides of all classes. Circle skirts, capped sleeves, and nipped in waists were all the rage, with girlish touches such as bows, and short veils finishing off the look.

Image: Cecil Beaton/Wikimedia Commons

Image: elisa.rolle/Wikimedia Commons

American film star Grace Kelly’s 1956 wedding to the Prince of Monaco became a seminal moment in wedding dress history. Featuring a nipped in waist and long lace sleeves, this quintessential, timeless look spawned thousands of copycat dresses, including Kate Middleton’s in 2011.

Image: Caroline Picard/Wikimedia Commons

After a decade of petticoats and crinolines, brides in the 1960s tended towards sleeker, more sophisticated dresses. The rise of the miniskirt, pioneered by Mary Quant, began to take effect on bridal wear, and a fashion-conscious bride in this decade might have chosen a high-necked, long-sleeved dress cut to the mid-thigh.

Not even wedding fashion could escape the psychedelic 70s, and hippy chic inspired a decade of floaty gowns. High necklines, long sleeves and flowing trains either harked back to the Edwardian era or went even further back in time, with bell sleeves and lace up bodices drawing inspiration from medieval times, as brides sought out their own fairy-tale fantasy.

1981 was another stand out moment in royal wedding fashion, as Princess Diana walked down the aisle in the most delightfully 80s frock imaginable. Cocooned in layers of tulle and taffeta, complete with huge puff sleeves and a 25-foot train, this David Emmanuel design spawned a decade of meringues, and holds a fond place in fashion history.

Cocooned in layers of tulle and taffeta, complete with huge puff sleeves and a 25-foot train, this David Emmanuel design spawned a decade of meringues, and holds a fond place in fashion history.

Image: John Matthew Smith/Wikimedia Commons

Image: Enciclopedia1993/Wikimedia Commons

The 90s and 00s saw a whole host of weird and wonderful creations, as celebrity weddings were splashed over the front cover of Hello magazine. Not only were the weddings themselves completely over-the-top, so were the dresses, with more and more brides choosing bright colours for their dresses.

Silhouettes grew more revealing as church weddings became less popular, and the strapless mermaid gown is still a firm favourite dating from this era.

Despite My Big Fat Gypsy Wedding first airing in the UK in 2010, wedding dresses over the last ten years have generally grown a bit tamer. While princess-style ballgowns remain popular, dresses have grown sleeker - think Meghan Markle's simplistic column dress with its elegant bateau neckline - with brides choosing fabric such as lace, charmeuse, and silk. Backless or low-cut dresses are popular, often boasting delicate appliques on illusion netting to create a sexy, seductive look while still offering coverage.

Bold personalised touches are also in vogue. Hailey Bieber’s veil featured the words “Till death do us part”, while Angelina Jolie wore a colourful veil decorated with her children’s artwork for her ill-fated 2014 marriage to Brad Pitt.

Many high-street retailers like ASOS and H&M are now branching into bridal wear for the first time, offering a range of traditional and modern styles at low prices, making it possible for budget conscious brides to pick up their dream dress for just a couple hundred pounds.